Sunday, June 2nd

08:00hr     Traditional Pachamama Ceremony(Plaza de Armas)

10:00hr     Raising of the National & Cusco Flags: Official Launch of the 2013 Fiestas

(Plaza de Armas)

11:00hr      Runasimi Yachay Quechua Lesson(Plaza de Armas)

Parade (sponsored by health officials (City Center)

Open-air Concert by the 5^th Mountain Brigade’s Musical Band (Plaza de Armas)

19:00hr     “Cruz Velakuy” Vignettes: Folkloric music, theater, and dance

(Plaza de Armas of the San Jeronimo District)

Monday, June 3^rd

09:00hr      Open-Air Concert by the National Police of Peru Band (Plaza de Armas)

Wednesday, June 5^th

9:30hr        World Environment Day Parade (Plaza de Armas)

10:30hr      Open-Air Concert by the National Police Band (Plaza Regocijo)

19:00hr     Andina Qosqo Symphonic Orchestra

(Machu Picchu Salon of Cusco’s Convention Center, Municipal Palace, Plaza Regocijo)

Thursday, June 6^th

15:00hr        Traditional Octava of Corpus Christi (Plaza de Armas)

Friday, June 7th

18:00hr      Pachamamaman Haywarikuy Ancestral Ceremony -offering to mother earth

(Qorikancha Explanade on Av el Sol)

19:00hr       Coreographed Dance Parade (UNSAAC Paraninfo in the Plaza de Armas)

Saturday, June 8^th

11:00hr      Special Program of Dances and Music (Plaza de Armas)

18:00hr     Cusqueñan Huayno Dance Hour (Plaza de Armas)

Sunday, June 9^th

10:00hr     Annual Renovation of the Inca Bridge of Q’eswachaka

(Q’ehue District – Canas Province)

11:00hr     Runasimi Yachay Quechua Lesson (Plaza de Armas)

Dance Parade (sponsored by the malls, artisanal centers, and markets)

(Plaza de Armas)

19:00hr     Serenade in honor of LVIII Anniversary of Santiago District (Plaza de Santiago)

Wednesday, June 12^th

19:00hr    Cusqueñan Corpus Christi Vignette  (UNSAAC Paraninfo in the Plaza de Armas)

Thursday, June 13^th

09:00hr     Native Dances of Cusco Parade (sponsored by the primary school system)

(Plaza de Armas)

10:30hr     Open-air Concert by the National Police Band

12:00hr     Presentation of “Fiesta del Carmen de Paucartambo” Float (Plaza de Armas)

Friday, June 14^th

09:00hr     Native Dances of Cusco Parade (sponsored by the primary school system)

(Plaza de Armas)

10:00hr      5th Khipu Art & Food Fair, in homage to Cusco (Plaza San Blas)

Inauguration of the 2013 Annual Painting Exhibition

(Museum of Contemporary Art, Municipality of Cusco)

19:30hr     Quechua Religious Music,

by the Las Ch’ayñas Brotherhood of Musicians & Singersof the Lord of Tremors

(Santo Domingo Temple, Qorikancha)

Saturday, June 15^th

07:00hr     Ecotouristic Walk along the Wanakauri Punas & Visit to Sonqonaku Community

(Plaza Principal of San Jerónimo)

08:00hr     Great Qosqoruna Turista Excursion

different touristic circuits sponsored by the regional government, to be announced

09:00hr   Native Dances Parade (sponsored by the primary school system) (Plaza de Armas)

Gastronomic Contest (Plaza Tupac Amaru, of Wanchaq)

18:00hr    Cusqueñan Huayno Dance Hour (Plaza de Armas)

19:00hr     Salute from Qollasuyo to Qosqo (by the Caporales Association of Cusco)

(Plaza de Armas)

19:00hr    Music Festival (Plaza Tupac Amaru, of Wanchaq)

Sunday, June 16^th

11:00hr    Runasimi Yachay Quechua lesson (Plaza de Armas)

11:45hr    Salute to Cusco Parade (sponsored by Alas Peruanas University) (Plaza de Armas)

Monday, June 17^th

09:00hr    Traditional Dances Parade

(sponsored by the non-university educational institutions)

(Plaza de Armas)

10:00hr    “Art & Nature” Flowers, Native Trees & Bonsai Exhibition

(Municipal Palace of Cusco, in Plaza Recocijo)

10:30hr    Open-air Concert by National Police Band (San Blas Plaza)

19:00hr    Great Cusqueñan Master Art Competition

(Tupac Amaru Cultural  Salon, Plaza de Armas)

Tuesday, June 18^th

09:00hr    Salute to Eternal Cusco Parade (sponsored by the Austral University)

(Plaza de Armas)

10:00hr    Parade in Homage to Cusco (sponsored by San Antonio Abad National University)

(Plaza de Armas)

14:00hr    Festidanzas (The IPD Closed Coliseum of Andina University)

Wednesday, June 19th

XI Long-Distance Horse Race along the Qorilazo Routes ( Departs Livitaca in Chumbívilcas on 19th, 20th reachas Accha and Paruro, and on the 21st departs Paruro for Cusco)

09:00hr     Homage to the Millennial Capital of Tawantinsuyo Parade

(sponsored by Andina University) (Plaza de Armas)

10:30hr    Open-air Concert by the National Police Band (Plaza de Armas)

13:00hr    Dances and Bands (Plaza de Armas)

Thursday, June 20^th

08:30hr    Salute to the Historical Capital of Perú Parade

(sponsored by the Technological University of the Andes) (Plaza de Armas)

10:00hr    Apu Wanakaure: Icon of Identity Photo Exhibition (Plazoleta Espinar)

12:45hr     Homage to the Capital of Tawantinsuyo Parade (sponsored by Global University)

(Plaza de Armas)

18:00hr    Night of Light and Sound (Plaza de Armas)

18:30hr    Gala Concert of the 5^th Mountain Brigade (Qorikancha Explanade – Avenida el Sol)

Friday, June 21^st

08:00hr    Apu Wanakawri  Ritual Ceremony (Apu Wanakawri Archeological Complex)

CIVIL PARADE IN HONOR OF ETERNAL CUSCO

8:00hr     General ringing of the bells, and the María Angola bell

9:00hr     The Great Parade begins (Plaza de Armas)

10:00hr    “Waqnakawri 2013”, representation of the city founding

(Apu Wanakawri Archeological Complex)

11:00hr   III Sumaq Mihuy 2013 Andean Food Festival

(Uriel García Institute, Av. Jorge Chávez, Urbanización Ttio)

1900hr   Chumbivilcana Cultural Night: Anniversary of Chumbivilcas Province

(UNSAAC Paraninfo, Plaza de Armas)

Saturday, June 22^nd

10:00hr     Float Parade (by School of Bellas Artes) (Av El Sol – Plaza de Armas)

16:00hr    Gran Noche Cusqueña – Folkloric Spectacular (Plaza de Armas)

Sunday, June 23^rd

09:00hr      II Festival of folkloric dances and traditional dishes Intikillaq Chawpichanpi

10:00hr      Raising of the National & Cusco flags by the 5^th mountain brigade

(Plaza de Armas)

11:00hr       Runasimi Yachay Quechua Lesson (Plaza de Armas)

18:30hr       Gala Presentation of the National Police Band

Monday, June 24^th

06:00hr       21-Gun Salute by the 5^th mountain brigade

08:15hr       The Raising of the Flags

08:30 hr      Mass and Te Deum at Cusco’s Basilica Cathedral

INTI RAYMI – SUN FESTIVAL

09:00hr      Pt I: Salute to the Sun at Qorikancha Explanade

10:30hr      Pt II: Meeting of the Times & Coca Ceremony at the Plaza de Armas

13:45hr       Pt III: Central Ceremony at Chukipanpa Explanade at Saqsayhuaman Fortress

Tuesday, June 25^th

09:00hr     Artisan Fair (Plaza San Blas)

Qosqo Sayarin, meeting of the Inka and the Qoya with the educational authorities (Plaza Regocijo)

Wednesday, June 26^th

18:30hr     Concert in Homage to Cusco in its Anniversary

(ICPNA autorium, Av Tullumayo 125)

Friday, June 28^th

11:00hr      Inauguration of the Regional History Museum,

Inca Garcilaso de la Vega Chimpuocllo House

(Plazoleta Espinar)

11:00hr     Munay T’ikacha Festival (San Andrés 214, Santa Rosa Institute)

17:00hr    Youth, Andean, Ancestral, and Memorial Musical Presentation (Plaza San Blas)

19:00hr    Concert Homage to Cusco (ICPNAC auditorium)

Saturday, June 29^th

09:00hr    VII Qosqo Napaykuyki Artistic-Cultural Festival (Plaza San Blas)

Popular Art Fair & Competition (Plaza San Blas)

National Karting Championships

(Opens in Cusco, continues thru June 30^th; Sillki de Oropesa Sporting Complex)

18:00hr     Runasimi Yachay Quechua Lesson (Plaza de Armas)

There’s no doubt- Iquitos is the best way to see the Peruvian Amazon. Founded on the left bank of the Amazon River as a Jesuit mission catering to the Napeano and Iquito indigenous communities, Iquitos grew rapidly in the late 1800s and early 1900s, mostly due to a series of rubber and oil booms that made the city very diverse in population and gave it a strong Amazonian, European, and Bohemian feel- it’s even home to an isolated community of Sephardic Jews. Today, it’s still the major fluvial port and the cultural, urban, and commercial center of life in the Peruvian Amazon, even hosting the plaque commemorating the Amazon as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World (which belongs to all the countries boasting part of the Amazon). Despite of being the world’s largest inland city that is inaccessible by road, it has been steadily gaining a reputation as a party town.

climate

In Iquitos’ standard rainforest climate, you’ll be feeling the heat and the 85% humidity. November through May is considered the rainy season, although the difference between rainy and dry seasons is not strongly marked as in other parts of Peru. However, even if the rain doesn’t increase much, the river level can fluctuate by as much as 40ft due to rainfall and snow melt on the eastern slopes of the Andes. The river reaches its high point in April-May.

Unless you are not planning to leave the city and explore the surrounding jungle, you should take anti-malarial pills in preparation for your trip. The yellow fever vaccine is also recommended if you are participating in a tour of the Amazon. Remember to apply insect repellent liberally throughout your visit.

gettin in & around

Most visitors arrive by plane, although the city can also be reached by boat from any navigable port on the Amazon River (popular journeys include departures from Coca in Ecuador, Yurimaguas or Pucallpa in Peru, or from the country’s boarder with Colombia and Brazil). Domestic flights to Iquitos can vary from $55 USD in the low season to $200 USD in the high season. Once there, small motorboats known as peque-peques offer public transport to nearby cities.

Transport within the city is dominated by motorcycle rickshaws known as tuk-tuks, which generally cost 1.50-2 soles, although a standard rate from the airport to the city center is 6-8 soles. If you feel like exploring independently, you can rent a motorcycle for your use as well.

what to do

Any trip to Iquitos should begin with a visit to the Main Square. The city’s historical booms and busts left it with a uniquely diverse style. Wealthy rubber barons left their mark with exuberant tiled buildings. The gothic Matriz de Iquitos Church with Swiss clock, the pre-fab Casa de Fierro, Iron House, (designed by the same architect as the Eiffer Tower,) and almost 90 other baroque and rococo buildings provide a counterpoint to the rustic palafittes, malocas, and huts which characterize the rest of the city. There are also omnipresent displays of the brightly colored Amazon Pop Art, known as Wild Naïve, a self-taught local style referencing hallucinogenic ayahuasca experiences.

Other major tourist attractions include Monkey Island, Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Zoo, and Belén Market, the largest traditional market in the Peruvian Amazon. Many visitors pass through Iquitos because they want to explore Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, and visit the indigenous communities. Ayahuasca sessions with an Amazonian shaman are also increasingly popular, althrough recent abuses underscore the necesity of doing your research ahead of time. If possible, try to do a Canopy Walk as well- one of the best ways to appreciate the world’s most diverse bird population is to meet them at their level!

big events

Iquitos’ water and paint fights of Carnaval are among the best in Peru. The other major celebration is the Feast of San Juan (in honor of patron of the Peruvian Amazon, John the Baptist) on June 24^th, when families flock to outings along the riverside. Celebrations begin as much as 10 days in advance.

The feast has a unique Amazonian flavor despite having been imposed by the Spanish during the period following the Conquest. The city crowns its queen, hosts folkloric dance contests and parades, and sponsors open air concerts with traditional instruments such as bombos, drums and flutes. To really get into the spirit, you should eat traditional Juanes (tasty chicken and rice parcels steamed in bijao leaves, whose shape supposedly represents the head of John the Baptist on a platter) and dance the shunto jump. The traditional Pandilla is danced around decorated palms or posts laden with gifts along the top known as an Unsha before it’s chopped down to distribute the gifts. Taking a dip in the rivers, the baño bendito, is believed to ensure health and happiness in the coming year.

For more information about trips to Iquitos, including transport to and from or Amazon excursions, contact Pirwa Travel Service at pirwatravel@gmail.com.

We’re compiling some of our favorite tips for new travelers and veterans who could use a reminder, based on more than a decade providing budget lodging for travelers throughout Peru & Bolivia- and of course, our own travels!

Stay Longer

Loaded with bags on arrival in Lima

If you’re a budget-minded traveler or backpacker, the largest portion of your travel budget is probably allotted to international fares. Despite the falling dollar and local inflation, the exchange rate still goes in your favor, making daily expenses in Peru and Bolivia pretty cheap. If you’re splashing out on the trip, try and stretch it out a little- the most frequent regret by travelers is not having scheduled enough time.

Enjoy Cheap Eats

Left to Right: Eating Picana at Pirwa La Paz, Sampling birthday cake at Pirwa Inclan B&B, Putting the kitchen to use, Eating together at Pirwa Hostel Lima

Avoid tourist-oriented restaurants and choose a moderately-priced menú. 5 to 10 soles, or 10 to 20 bolivianos, is enough for a quality lunch (you can find even cheaper options, but cleanliness is often sacrificed at the cheapest locales). Staying at hostels with guest kitchens is smart. Consider budgeting for one great meal in each city (ceviche in Lima, alpaca in Arequipa, etc) and eating on the cheap otherwise. 9 times out of ten, you can get away with eating street food…the tenth time can be a real downer however, as you have to forgo planned excursions and endure bus trips. If you’re going for it, try anticuchos (shish kabobs) but avoid fried food like papas rellenas, which become bacterial magnets when left to sit after frying.

Demonstrate Money Smarts

Enjoying free Wi-Fi at Pirwa Hostel Lima

Traveling internationally without informing your bank beforehand is just begging for them to freeze your account at the most inconvenient moment- don’t risk it. Avoid getting scammed by getting average prices before arriving in the airport, learning to spot counterfeit bills, and studying your money before handing it over (so that an unscrupulous vendor or taxi driver can’t switch it and then return it saying its false). Never accept American dollars with nicks, tears, or excessive folding, because not even the banks will accept them from you while in Bolivia or Peru. Negotiate with both vendors and taxi drivers, because the first price offered is almost never the fair one. If you bring your iphone with you, tap into free hostel wi-fi to contact family back home through messengers rather than more expensive telephone calls….but never let it out of your sight because it will be the first thing stolen. If you don’t want to take the risk, stick to the internet cafés at a sol an hour.

Save on Lodging

On the bus from La Paz to Copacabana

If you’d like to spend more than week in a city of your choice, one of the best ways to save on lodging is to work shifts at the hostel in exchange for your stay. This lets you spend more time in a city and actually get to know it beyond the tourists’ quarters. If you’re looking to shave a night or two off your budget, night buses have the triple advantage of traveling cheaper while saving a night’s lodging and also allowing you to sleep through an uncomfortably long ride.

Be Prepared

Leave the curling iron behind, and use that space for the things you actually need. During your trip to Bolivia or Peru you are likely to encounter cobblestone streets and dirt roads, oppressively sunny afternoons coupled inexplicably frigid mornings and nights, and during the November through March rainy season, frequent rains and mud. Bringing lightweight layers is wise, and decide on your altitude sickness plan ahead of time.Bathrooms are not often stocked with soap/disinfectant or toilet paper, so if possible keep some on hand.

Have any tips to share? Add them in the comments!

There’s no better time to visit Cusco than during Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival, still the year’s most important festival ever since the time of the Inca empire, when Inti Raymi honored the supreme deity, the sun, and celebrated the end of one agricultural year and the beginning of the next. Two weeks of concerts, dancing, and fairs kick off each June 21^st during the Andean Winter Solstice, in what has become South America’s 2^nd largest festival. During this time Cusco honors its history through elaborate and massive reenactments and colorful celebrations that attract 50,000 spectators.

• If you plan on joining in, it’s best to make plans as far in advance as possible- availability for lodging in Cusco, transport, and Machu Picchu can go quickly, and prices rise in response to the increased demand.

Although the complete schedule for the two weeks of celebrating has not yet been announced, we do have the details for the most important day, June 24^th, when reenactments take place at Cusco’s most significant sites. This is also the date of the Day of the Farmer (formerly Day of the Indian) and of Cusco’s Anniversary, which is part of the reason why the city explodes with activity and color during this time, with free concerts, street fairs, and a seemingly endless parade of vibrantly dressed dancers.

Part I: Qorikancha, 9am

It all begins with the Sun Greeting at Qorikancha at 9:00. This temple’s name means Golden Enclosure but it is better known as the Temple of the Sun. It’s importance as the religious center of Cusco before the arrival of the Conquistadores was marked by the golden band which surrounded it. The ceremony lasts 30 minutes and you can watch for free as characters representing the nobility of a bygone age (the royal entourage, the Chosen Women, and the Sapa Inca himself) salute the sun, arriving along flower-strewn steets amidst the sounds of conch shell.

• Remember to be wary of pickpockets in the crowds- keep a close watch on your pockets, bags, and especially small electronics.

Part II: Plaza de Armas, 11am

The second part of the reenactments is also free to watch, lasts about 45 minutes and takes place at 11am in Cusco’s main square, the Plaza de Armas (once known as Auqaypata, Warrior’s Square). Climbing atop a ceremonial platform called an ushnu, the Inka formally addresses the mayor of Cusco in what is known as the Meeting of the Times.

• If you go independently, you must arrive quite early and be willing to deal with intense crowding at times. Otherwise, agency packages normally include a private balcony from which to watch the celebrations.
• Pirwa Posada del Corregidor, our hostel in the Plaza de Armas, has its own restaurant with a balcony from which to watch the proceedings.
• Taxis will not enter the city center during this time, so if you’re staying in a hostel in the city center, your mobility will be compromised from the early morning through late afternoon (at least), and you will do better on foot.
• Despite June being wintertime in Cusco, the weather is very variable. Mornings and evenings are very cold, but from approximately 11am to 3pm it can get very hot in the afternoon sun, so dressing in layers is recommendable.

Part III: Sacsayhuamán, 1:30pm

The central ceremony takes place at Sacsayhuamán, the fortress of massive stones which overlooks the city of Cusco, and lasts an hour and a half. The 4 suyos, or regions of the empire, issue their reports, and the Chicha, Sankhu, and Sacred Fire rituals take place. There’s the Llama Sacrifice (which is simulated) and the divining from its entrails. It all ends with Q’ochurikuy, the explosion of popular exhaltation.

Although tickets have not yet been made available, ticket prices range from US$90 (Green Zone) to US$130 (Orange Zone) and include the official program and explanation in three languages and a commemorative DVD. To buy tickets for the Sacsayhuaman ceremonies from EMUFEC, the managing government agency, one has to pay in advance through bank transfer, although their purchasing system is usually not activated very long before the celebrations.

• Rather than pay the ticket price, locals choose to simply gather in the surrounding area and hope to catch a glimpse of proceedings while picnicking along the hills, although visibility can be elusive in the crowds.
  
• Sun protection is crucial; medical & safety personnel will be on hand in case of emergency

Pirwa Travel’s Inti Raymi Tours

Pirwa Travel Service offers two packages inspired by the festival. The one-day tour which includes tickets, balcony access overlooking the Plaza de Armas, a packed lunch, and a knowledgeable guide. Meanwhile, the 6-day tour includes the main festival day alongside guided tours of the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Machu Picchu.

The specialists of Pirwa Travel Service have ten years experience providing affordable excursions thorughout Peru and Bolivia. If you need help planning your itinerary, or arranging transportation, excursions, entrances, etc, feel free to contact them at pirwatravel@gmail.com and they’ll be glad to help!

Last month’s renovations were not the only changes that have been taking place at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers in Cusco.

• The Colonial Bar will now be open all day long. So while you can just relax in the daytime while checking your emails and updating your travel blog, you can also order up snacks or drinks if you’d like.
• Speaking of the bar, the drink list now includes a greater variety of beers and cocktails, so while Peruvian classics like Pisco Sours, Chilcanos de Pisco, y Cusqueño beer are always staples, there’ll now be more options for those of you who want a more international.
• We have largely extended menus for optional additions to the included continental breakfast- those of you with an appetite can order up everything from banana smoothies, panoply of hot breakfast sandwiches, French toasts, huevos rancheros and every other egg dish one can think of.

We hope that the increased rooming options created by the renovations, more private bathrooms, more bar and food offerings, and increased serving hours will mean more comfort and better service for all of our guests and friends. Thanks to all of you who’ve been a part of the Pirwa family over the years and whose feedback and support has helped us hone our services!

We’re currently looking for 4 helpers for Pirwa Colonial Backpackers, in the area of bar / food / events in the evenings (6pm-12am, 7pm-1am…something in that neighborhood). If you can pour drinks and are planning on spending at least a week in Cusco, we hope you’ll come lend a hand! Basically, if you work 7 days, you get lodging for an additional 3 days to accomodate your excursions.

In return, you get a free bed in one of the shared dorms, breakfast, and a little money for lunch. If you’re interested, please send us your info and travel plans to reservaspirwa@gmail.com. We hope to hear from you!!

Pirwa Hostels is pleased to announce that our banner hostel,

in Cusco, has successfully undergone renovations in various rooms, to provide more private ensuite rooms alongside a variety of dormitories.

We’re now fully operational again, and ready to meet new friends and guests from around the world.

The interior patios and the fully stocked TV & movie lounge remain unchanged, and at the moment we’ve only one more portion to complete: the 24hr guest kitchen.

Pirwa Colonial’s Bar continues to boast a fast food stand, 2 for 1 cocktails during our “Happy Hour Every Hour”, and activities from yesterday’s Patriotic Party (where guests donned the colors of their respective countries) to today’s BBQ. Table games and instruments are always available, not to mention a pool table and ping pong table!

Travelers who enter and exit Peru by land generally do so vía Puno in the Peruvian highlands, at the edge of the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. Far from being a mere wayside stop, however, it’s a destination for thousands of travelers. Its greatest attractions are the islands of Lake Titicaca, especially the storied Floating Islands of Uros, man-made reed islands which are home to the Aymara-speaking Uros people, believed to be the oldest living culture of the Americas. Travelers often make it a point to visit one of the the traditional Quechua-speaking islands as well, either Taquile or Amantani, both of which have pre-Incan and Incan temples and terracing. They’re reknowned for  their knitting and textile arts, which they’ve practiced for thousands of years; Taquile’s colorful textiles were even declared “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO.

When to go…

If you’re wondering when will be the best times to go, there are some unique festivals which take place in January/February and November.  both One of Peru’s, and South America’s, most spectacular festivals is the Virgin of Candelaria, where for two weeks from late January through early February, thousands of vibrantly costumed dancers and musicians demonstrate why Puno is considered the country’s folkloric capital.

Each November, the devil leads his own parade and the legendary founder of the Inca Empire, Manco Cápac, rises anew from the waters of Lake Titicaca during the colorful Diablada Festival. Both festivals are marked by concerts, food fairs, fireworks, and many dances.

How to Get There…

Unfortunately for those who prefer to travel by plane, Puno doesn’t actually have an airport- it’s served by the Inca Manco Capac Airport in Juliaca, about an hour outside of town. There is public transport available for those heading towards Puno, however. Many choose to go by bus (and for those of you arriving between 7am and 7pm, Pirwa Puno Backpackers can often arrange to pick you up from the bus terminal or individual stations for free!). If you’re planning on traveling by bus from Cusco to Puno or vice-versa, look into the Sun Route for guided stops along the way. Another option is to travel by train, the priciest choice and one not often chosen by the backpacker set, but if you’re interested, the Cusco-to-Puno route by rail is actually one of the America’s most famous train journeys.

Where to Stay…

Pirwa Puno Backpackers is a cozy budget hostel located just a 15 minute walk from Lake Titicaca Harbor (close to Puno’s main street Calle Independencia Lima, and only a couple blocks from the main square). It offers a variety of shared dorms and private rooms, all with comfortable beds and private bathrooms. Communal areas include the TV and Movie Lounge, Guest Kitchen, Breakfast Room, and Patio. Our local travel expert, Margot, can help arrange all manner of excursions, including visits to the Floating Islands of Uros or transport to Copacabana. While you’re out exploring the Folkloric Capital of Peru, your belongings will be safe thanks to the security lockers in the dorm rooms, luggage storage room, and a warm reception staff that’s on hand 24 hours. One big change we’ve had recently is the purchase of additional heating units for those of you anxious about the cold of the Peruvian highlands. We hope that you’ll include us in your Peruvian adventures!

For more detailed tips and recommendations regarding Puno’s climate, nightlife, food, etc, check out our website’s Puno Tips page.

Getting There

The Bolivian Amazon is becoming steadily more popular, especially among budget travelers, as it offers the diversity of the Brazilian Amazon at a fraction of the price. Simply put, it’s a more affordable and less crowded way to see the Amazon. First, one must get to Rurrenaque, which is accessible from La Paz by a bumpy but cheap 20 hour bus ride or a more expensive but scenic 35 minute flight over the high plains and snowy Andean peaks and into the tropics. (Flights cost approximately US$75 and are generally on 18-seater planes). As the gateway town into the tropics, Rurrenabaque is relaxed and touristy (despite its lack of an ATM). Happily, there is no risk of malaria in the jungle around Rurrenabaque (another advantage over the standard Brazilian trips. Once a traveler arrives in Rurrenabaque, he or she has two choices: into the Pampas, or into the Jungle.

Pampas vs Jungle

Why Choose the Pampas?…
To get to the Pampas, the tropical wetland savannah on the edge of the Bolivian Amazon, one takes a bumpy DIRECTIONS three hour jeep ride to Santa Rosa, then very popular three hour motorized canoe ride along the river to your riverside lodge. This first canoe trip is often cited as the trip highlight thanks to a wide cast of birds such as egrets, herons, hoatzin, and kingfishers, and wildlife such as alligators, capybara, tortoises, pink dolphins and squirrel monkeys. The advantages to a Pampas tour are that it’s cheaper than a jungle tour (three times cheaper on average), and that one sees more abundant wildlife, as they gather by the riverside and as there are less trees and vegetation to block views.

Why Choose the Jungle?…
To get to the jungle, one takes a three hour motorized canoe ride DIRECTIONS and then a 40 minute walk through the jungle. Jungle tours are considered the “classic” Amazon experience, so they remain popular despite being about three times more expensive than Pampas tours. There are numerous advantages to the jungle tours: First, they penetrate to a more densely vegetated area. Because the Jungle Eco-lodges are located more in the jungle interior, they more privacy and less people, for a more tranquil, “into the Amazon” feel. The specialists involved in these sorts of tours are more conservation-minded as well as more knowledgeable about vegetation, animals, and medicinal plants. There is also a bit more variety in activities, which depending on the tour you choose tend to include canoe trips, treks and hikes, piranha fishing, traditional handicrafts, swimming with the famous pink dolphins of the Amazonas, and visits to indigenous communities.

Verdict?

For the cash- or time-strapped, the Pampas tours deliver, but for the immersion- or conservation-minded, the jungle tours win out.

Bolivian Amazon Travel Tips

• Check & Re-Check Conditions & Flight Schedules, as both bus and air trips can be easily derailed and delayed during flood-prone rainy season.
• Encourage Best Practices by choosing one with well-paid staff year round, conservation efforts.  Keep your expectations/demands reasonable… it is not proper to touch animals no matter how much you want that anaconda around neck photo, and asking for guarantees of spotting extremely rare animals such as jaguars only encourages the trapping and abuse of such animals- that is the price of a guarantee.
• Bring Your Own Snacks: Keep in mind that treks can be tiring and appetite-inducing, and that across the board, even with the best and most expensive operators, travelers frequently mention that they wish more food was served. Beers and drinks are generally available for purchase (and bottles of water are always provided free on the first day and then refilled) in the eco-lodges, as well as perhaps snacks, but its better and cheaper to be prepared.
• Aim For the Dry Season: Increase comfort, Avoid canoing and hiking trip cancellations, and see more animals by visiting during the May to October dry season if at all possible. Wildlife gathers by the rivers during the dry season, but remains dispersed by the puddles and little lakes during the wet season, which only attracts more mosquitoes.
• Bring Cash for drinks, snacks, souvenirs, and emergencies- remember, Rurrenabaque does not have an ATM.
• Bring a Flashlight, as generators provide electricity only until a certain time of night, generally around 10pm.
• Don’t Skimp on Repellent: While the lodges themselves are often generously equipped with mosquito netting, insect repellent will make a big difference to your comfort level, especially during jungle tours.

As always, the experienced specialists at Pirwa Travel Service can help you with any aspect of your trip. From helping you decide what type of jungle trip is right for you, from Madidi National Park in Bolivia to Puerto Maldonado in Peru, to helping you arrange tours, entrances, and guided visits. Contact them at pirwatravel@gmail.com and they’ll be happy to help!