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Posts Tagged ‘cusco’

When the Saints Come Marching In…

The best place to celebrate Corpus Christi is in Cusco, where the event takes on a character not found anywhere else.  Saints and Virgins lavishly adorned in elaborate clothing and ornaments process along the same streets where, in the time of the Inca Empire, richly attired and bejeweled mummies once processed.  For Cusco, this is the year´s most important and extravagant religious festival.

The day before the main event, patron saints from the 15 parish districts head towards the Main Square´s Cathedral in separate processions to the Cathedral to greet the Body of Christ (Corpus Christi).  They´ll arrive showing off their newest ornate clothing and adornments and accompanied by musicians and parishioners.  They´ll spend the night in the Cathedral.  The next morning they´ll find their way to large altars in the Main Square decked out with flowers and tree branches, spiritual images, standards, mirrors, and more.  The morning of the main day, Thursday the 23^rd of this month, the Arch Bishop will lead the Te-Deum.  Then the Golden Sun of Custody which holds the Sacred Host will be paraded around the Square in a silver carriage.  (An 18^th century piece, the Golden Custody weighs in at 26.7kg and is 1.2m in height.  It´s made of gold and adorned with 331 pearls, 263 diamonds, 221 green emeralds, 89 amethysts, 62 rubies, 43 topazes, 17 diamonds, 5 sapphires and an agate.)

Once the Holy Sacrament finishes its procession, it´s time for the Saints and Virgins to parade together to the sounds of Peru´s largest church bell, the 16^th century María Angola, and traditional music while dancers perform.  Some of the dances you´ll be able to see are the Mestiza Qoyacha and Capaq Qoya.  In typical Andean fashion, costumed characters representing different aspects of Andean and/or Incan mythology will be in attendance entertaining the crowds, such as qollas, chauchos, pabluchas, and ukukus among them.  Afterwards, they´ll stay in the Cathedral for seven days.  On the Octava, they´re will be another parade before the Saints and Virgins separate to parade back to their respective home parishes.

A Place to Watch the Show…

The next two weeks are full of events in the Imperial city.  Corpus Christi is on the same day that the night serenades to Cusco will take place in the Main Square, and the very next day is the principal day of Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun.  Cusco is also celebrating its anniversary and Machu Picchu´s Centenary.  The city´s streets have become an animated stage for colorfully costumed dancers, musicians, and revelers.  Give some thought to securing a comfortable spot from which to watch the action, because thousands will congregate in the Main Square in the next several days.  Pirwa´s Posada del Corregidor Bed & Breakfast has an in-house restaurant with a balcony overlooking the Main Square.  You can sit in the shade and enjoy a drink without missing the spectacle or having to jostle for a spot.  Unlike most of the tourism sector here in the city, we offer the same low price throughout the year- there´ll be no price hikes during the festivities.

What to eat…

During the Wednesday night vigil while the Saints and Virgins are in the Cathedral, families will prepare and share 12 traditional dishes.  On Thursday, one of these dishes is preeminent- you´ll see it everywhere you go: Chiriuchu (Cold Chili Pepper).  It´s a cold dish assembled with pieces of guinea pig, and other meats alongside Andean cheese, toasted corn kernels, tortillas, bread, and more.  The dancing and music don´t stop once the patron saints enter the Cathedral, but the eating and drinking definitely starts.

There´s only one week left until the main Intí Raymi celebration kicks off!  June is considered the best time to stop by Cusco for good reason- those of you who are already in the city know that Cusco´s been dancing for a week already, the faithful are setting off for the hemisphere´s largest indigenous pilgrimage, Qoyllur Rit´i, and the city is anxiously working its way towards Machu Picchu´s Centennial at the beginning of next month (another big one- check back here for info!).  Preparations have been underway all year.  Right now everything is building up to Intí Raymi´s main day on June 24^th.  The festivities will continue into next month with Machu Picchu´s 100^th anniversary, and no expense has been spared, so don´t miss seeing the Imperial City at its best!

It is in honor of the Inca´s supreme divinity, the first day of the Incan solar calendar, and the winter solstice that Cusco explodes into color and elaborately costumed celebration every June.  The Festival of the Sun was the Inca´s most important annual ceremony, supposedly dating back to the very first Inca, Pachacutec.  After a long period of prohibition spanning the Spanish colonial period and its aftermath, Intí Raymi sprung back with a force- nowadays, 50,000 spectators and more than 500 actors, dancers, and musicians participate in the festivities.  If you can´t make it to the main event, don´t worry- the carnivalesque atmosphere continues in a with dance competitions, free concerts, street fairs and parades in Cusco´s main streets.  It won´t end until next month after the Machu Picchu Centennial, so keep checking back here for more info on Cusco´s festivities.

Official Program: Friday, 24^th of June 2011

08:15   The Tahauntinsuyo rainbow flag is raised in the Main Square by the 5^th Mountain Brigade

08:30   Cusco´s Archbishop performs Mass and the Te Deum at the Basilica Cathedral

9:00     Act I: Salute to the Sun at Qorikancha, the Temple of the Sun

Cusco travels back in time as characters of importance in the time of the Inca Empire assemble for the Incan Emperor´s Salute to the Sun.  The ceremony begins amid the sounds of conch shells and traditional Andean Instruments.  Afterwards, the characters will process along flower-strewn streets to the Main Square.

10:30   Act II: Meeting of the Times at the Main Square

Epochs clash as the Inca, from a large huaca (Incan Altar) constructed in the Plaza de Armas, officially addresses the Mayor of Cusco

13:30   Act III- The Main Event at the Fortress of Sacsayhuamán

During the principal ceremony, Intí Raymi reaches its culmination with a spectacular performance steeped in tradition.  It includes the Chicha de Jora rite, a simulated black llama sacrifice, and the fire rite.  There will be dancing, jubilation, divining from llama blood and viscera, and sacred bonfires.

Tips for Travelers

• Tickets aren´t necessary to see the main ceremony at Sacsayhuamán- if you don´t mind celebrating from a distance, you can grab a spot hillside local-style.  For those who want prime seating, however, there are still tickets being sold.
• So many people come for the festivities in June/July that rooms are hard to come by.  If you can, try to reserve in advance.  Also, be prepared for price hikes in transport, lodging, and food.  (Pirwa´s policy to keep prices stable, so we´re offering the same low prices we do all year long.)
• June is wintertime in Cusco, the weather is variable: cold in the mornings and evenings, and sunny and hot in the afternoon.  Come prepared with sunscreen and bring warm layers.
• The streets of Cusco are more crowded now than at any other time of year- with dancers and musicians in the streets and spectators crowding the sidewalks you need to remain cautious of pick-pockets hoping to profit from your distraction.

We all know that there are some traditional dishes in every country, which in many cases would not confirm our normal taste, especially in my case coming from Germany. For the local people it is such a normal thing, because they grew up with it. They never would consider certain things to be abnormal.

When we are travelling we are usually more open for new things and to have a try of the local taste. This is the time to eat things you probably would never, when you are at home. Some of the dishes you might not even be able to buy and prepare in other countries. The idea of eating insects is still very exotic in Europe, but people are getting customized to it, as being a source of protein. It is possible that the reality TV-shows had their contribution to it. But does that mean you would try it?

Arriving in Peru brought me into a complete different culture. One after another I tried the local dishes such as Chicharron, Aji de Gallina, Ceviche, Alpaca Steak…. Those are only some of the traditional dishes. Especially the people in front of the restaurants would remind me that there is something else to be tried. I always denied, since I could not imagine, that I would be able to eat my pet’s brother.

Everybody I asked kept on telling me, they are much bigger here and they would serve it with its head, to make sure, you would not eat a rat.

It took me six month and someone from far away. He wanted to go out to have Alpaca, since I enjoyed eating a good steak at some other time before I joined in. This restaurant had a lot of local specialties on the menu. Before I realized I had my pet’s bother on the plate. Cuy the local specialty people think of in relation to Peruvian dishes. It did taste much better then I would have expected it to be. Would I eat it again?…