Pirwa Hostels Peru Blog

Archive for the ‘Future event posts’ Category

Pucará´s Throat Slasher Ceremony

Despite the fascinating nature of the spectacle, it´s hard to find information online about Pucará´s Jatun Ñakaq Festival, otherwise known as the Throat-Slasher Festival or El Gran Degollador (The Great Decapitator). But if you´re in Puno between the 16th and 18th of June, maybe you´ll be lucky enough to witness it firsthand!

Much as the Inti Raymi festival is based around a theatrical ritual reenactment of ancient rites, locals in Pucará present an extraordinary scene as they reenact an ancient rite in a theatrical production involving hundreds of young actors directed by Ñaupa Riqchari (Let the Past Awake) Cultural Group. It takes place at the Kalasaya Ceremonial Center and Archeological Site in the Pucará District of Lampa Province in Puno.

You´ll notice that the pyramid site is decorated with carved stone trophy head borders- human sacrifices occurred in the ceremonial patio as offerings to the supreme god of the Pucará Civilization, the Decapitator. Long before the reign of the Inca, human sacrifices had a great value in society, although they were only resorted to in severe cases like drought. Today, locals congregate from Puno´s Quechua-speaking zone to enjoy the 4 hour theatrical show, which reaches its apex with a simulted human sacrifice.

Afterwards, all the blood cleaned up, there´ll be general partying and native dances will be on display. One of the most well-known is the beautiful Puli Puli, whose large smooth steps and leaps represent the stages of Quinua cultivation from sowing through flowering to harvest. Another typical dance is the Ayarachi (Soul Which Cries), a dance rising from the violent transitional period of the Spanish Conquest, when the Imperial City of Cusco tragically fell to Pizarro´s troops.

What To Bring Home

You´ll see them on rooftops all over the Andean High Plateau: the Pucará Bulls described by Puno writer Enrique Cuentas Ormachea as “an expression of baroque art and, at the same time, a manifestation of the magical religious spirit of the Qolla peasant.” An estimated 80% of locals are potters in addition to subsistence farmers, and the bulls are the most prized ceramics from Puno.

I couldn´t pick just one….and so we end with a herd of bulls….

Originally a ritual flask filled with chicha and cattle blood and drunk by the head priest during the cattle-branding ceremony, you´ll find guardian bulls adorning rooftops and providing luck for their residents.

After Pucará: Exploring the Rest of Puno

The Plan: Walk along the Ecotouristic Inca Seafront Bay (Malecón Ecoturístico Bahía de los Incas), a pedestrian path showcasing views of Lake Titicaca and pre-Inca solar clocks, or hitching posts of the sun known as sukankas or intihuatanas. Once at the harbor, stop into the Yaraví Ship Naval Museum, located inside the oldest single-propeller iron ship in the world, built in Britain, crossed the Andes in pieces on mule-back and then reassembled again in the Lake. When you´re ready to hit the waters of the lake itself, board a motorboat and stop by the traditional Quechua-speaking Islands of Amantani and Taquile, whose colorful weavings are considered the best in Peru and were proclaimed by UNESCO as “Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” and the Floating Islands of Uros, whose Aymara-speaking Uros tribe (known as kot-suña, people of the lake) depend on the lake´s tortora reeds for housing, sustenance, and transport in addition to using them to build and maintain the islands themselves.

Just a 15 minute walk away from Lake Titicaca Harbor you´ll find Pirwa Hostel in Puno, managed by husband and wife team Jenny and Carlos.  It´s also located only a couple blocks from the city center. For the same low prices available at Pirwa Hostels and B&Bs throughout Peru, you´ll have access to comfortable beds in cheery rooms, 24hr hot water, wifi throughout, reference maps and information as well as an in-house travel desk where you can get detailed answers to your questions and arrange tours or transport.  While you´re out exploring Puno you can be sure that your possessions are secure and that someone from reception will be waiting for you- no matter the hour.

Just four hours from the Imperial City of the Incas, Cusco, is the scenic colonial town of Paucartambo, instantly recognizable with its red-roofed mud-brick homes.  Once a year this sleepy town bursts into bright colors and frenzied activity.  From all over Peru people gather to celebrate Paucartambo´s Virgen of Carmen Festival.  From July 15^th-18^th devotees and revelers venerate the Mamacha Carmen, patron of the mestizos.

It all starts in Paucartambo´s Main Square, where singing quechua choirs kick off the festivities.  The streets fill with traditionally costumed dancers accompanying the Mamacha Carmen statue (its origins are unknown but it is thought to have been brought from Spain in the 16^th century).  Elaborately costumed Sajra dancers, representing demons, perform on the rooftops, pausing their clownery and dances to hide their faces and howl in fear as the Mamacha Carmen passes in front of them.

Paucartambo takes this festival seriously- each family group in the town represents a “house” responsible for displaying a certain costume and dance.  Those who live abroad come bearing proof of their family ties and thereby earn the right to dance, practicing for months for the main event and many times enduring some hazing along the way so that they´ll take their responsibility seriously…

The festival includes an mock holy battle between the faithful and the demons before concluding with the farewell festival, the kacharpari.

Don´t forget to see…

The Sunrise from Tres Cruces

The famous sunrise over Manú Jungle at Three Golden Crosses Lookout, in the Acjanaco Mountain Pass 35km from Paucartambo is not to be missed.  In the months of May, June, and July the clouds create an array of forms, colors and tonal gradations not seen in other areas or in other parts of the year.  Locals believe, due to the illusions created by the clouds, that during this time the sun comes out dancing.

The Ninamarca Tombs and Watoqto

Nearby, one can find the Ninamarca Tombs archeological complex.  It comprises 17 stone and clay tower mausoleums known as Chullpas, built to house mummified Incan remains.  The Watoqto arqueological site is can also be found in this area- come and admire the precise stonework with which the Incas constructed these inclined walls and circular constructions.

There´s only one week left until the main Intí Raymi celebration kicks off!  June is considered the best time to stop by Cusco for good reason- those of you who are already in the city know that Cusco´s been dancing for a week already, the faithful are setting off for the hemisphere´s largest indigenous pilgrimage, Qoyllur Rit´i, and the city is anxiously working its way towards Machu Picchu´s Centennial at the beginning of next month (another big one- check back here for info!).  Preparations have been underway all year.  Right now everything is building up to Intí Raymi´s main day on June 24^th.  The festivities will continue into next month with Machu Picchu´s 100^th anniversary, and no expense has been spared, so don´t miss seeing the Imperial City at its best!

It is in honor of the Inca´s supreme divinity, the first day of the Incan solar calendar, and the winter solstice that Cusco explodes into color and elaborately costumed celebration every June.  The Festival of the Sun was the Inca´s most important annual ceremony, supposedly dating back to the very first Inca, Pachacutec.  After a long period of prohibition spanning the Spanish colonial period and its aftermath, Intí Raymi sprung back with a force- nowadays, 50,000 spectators and more than 500 actors, dancers, and musicians participate in the festivities.  If you can´t make it to the main event, don´t worry- the carnivalesque atmosphere continues in a with dance competitions, free concerts, street fairs and parades in Cusco´s main streets.  It won´t end until next month after the Machu Picchu Centennial, so keep checking back here for more info on Cusco´s festivities.

Official Program: Friday, 24^th of June 2011

08:15   The Tahauntinsuyo rainbow flag is raised in the Main Square by the 5^th Mountain Brigade

08:30   Cusco´s Archbishop performs Mass and the Te Deum at the Basilica Cathedral

9:00     Act I: Salute to the Sun at Qorikancha, the Temple of the Sun

Cusco travels back in time as characters of importance in the time of the Inca Empire assemble for the Incan Emperor´s Salute to the Sun.  The ceremony begins amid the sounds of conch shells and traditional Andean Instruments.  Afterwards, the characters will process along flower-strewn streets to the Main Square.

10:30   Act II: Meeting of the Times at the Main Square

Epochs clash as the Inca, from a large huaca (Incan Altar) constructed in the Plaza de Armas, officially addresses the Mayor of Cusco

13:30   Act III- The Main Event at the Fortress of Sacsayhuamán

During the principal ceremony, Intí Raymi reaches its culmination with a spectacular performance steeped in tradition.  It includes the Chicha de Jora rite, a simulated black llama sacrifice, and the fire rite.  There will be dancing, jubilation, divining from llama blood and viscera, and sacred bonfires.

Tips for Travelers

• Tickets aren´t necessary to see the main ceremony at Sacsayhuamán- if you don´t mind celebrating from a distance, you can grab a spot hillside local-style.  For those who want prime seating, however, there are still tickets being sold.
• So many people come for the festivities in June/July that rooms are hard to come by.  If you can, try to reserve in advance.  Also, be prepared for price hikes in transport, lodging, and food.  (Pirwa´s policy to keep prices stable, so we´re offering the same low prices we do all year long.)
• June is wintertime in Cusco, the weather is variable: cold in the mornings and evenings, and sunny and hot in the afternoon.  Come prepared with sunscreen and bring warm layers.
• The streets of Cusco are more crowded now than at any other time of year- with dancers and musicians in the streets and spectators crowding the sidewalks you need to remain cautious of pick-pockets hoping to profit from your distraction.

The entire world has its eyes on South Africa in these days. Everyone is cheering for their team. Since the games are in the early hours of the day not everyone feels like leaving the hostel without a good breakfast. You feel like keeping your jammies. Come and join us in our Pirwa Bar to watch the games on a big screen while enjoying your breakfast.

Get the weekend started…

We will start with a meat feast tonight to provide you with a good basis. Come and join us for our BBQ. Make sure you will be able to handle our PIRWA Specials in our PIRWA BAR tonight…
Find out who else is staying in the hostel. Find some new travel buddies or maybe even friends for life. You will meet a lot of new people and have the pleasure to hang out with your local PIRWA Staff and get to know them a little more. The will be able to tell you about all the secrets you need to know!!!

Come and join us in the PIRWA BAR tonight.

You won’t be able to make it? That’s a pity. Check this out to reserve your bed for next time.
www.pirwahostelsperu.com